Update From Kalamata Greece

 

Every place we visit has that one traditional recipe. In Budapest, everyone I asked called out Chicken Paprikash without hesitation. It's been the same here in Kalamata, the capital of Messinia. Everyone says gournopoula--slowly roasted pork on a spit. Typically it's a whole suckling pig, but places that serve other roasted meats may only roast half a pig. On our last day in Kalamata, we had an early lunch, which was quite an inconvenience to Ioannis, the young man who owns O Kritikos, the grill restaurant that had been recommended to us. We were eager not to miss out, and he was eager to serve us, but he was on his own as he didn't open for another hour and a half. Regardless, he asked us to have a seat and brought us a fabulous plateful of succulent meat with the extra crispy skin that I had been dreaming of. If you're ever in Kalamata, you can taste this traditional dish too. O Kritikos is at 190 Faron Street, one of the side streets just a block or two from the harbor. Facebook page serves as a website. There aren't any current posts, but the information is still the same. And everything is and will be as delicious as it was today.

A Horiatiki/Greek Salad & bread served our gournopoula well.

Kalamata is a thriving port city with very hospitable residents. Everyone has been welcoming, especially when I speak to them in Greek and even more so when I tell them that I was born in the nearby Sparta area. One gentleman asked my family name (Panagakos), and from that, he determined that it originated in Mani and that we must be related. I told him that I was delighted! Maniots have a reputation for being tough, resourceful and resilient. They've made a life out of hardship and living among the rocks and olive trees of the area.  I'm good with that affiliation!

Boats for hire or cruising

Fishing boats with a pile of fishing nets

We took a tour of Mani this week, going up from the foothills of Taygetos and higher up the mountain. Then back down to seaside villages like Kardamili and Stoupa--gorgeous beaches for swimming and thriving tourism. It's tough driving over this mountain and through the villages, so plan accordingly. Roads are narrow and there are a lot of switchbacks. Hire a dependable transportation service (as we did) or rent a small manual drive vehicle. (You don't want to use up your brakes.) Do your research and plan ahead. We chose to stop in Areopolis, which is another tourist-supported village, but without the beaches. We ate on the square at a restaurant called Spaka--the Mani word for Sage, which apparently is plentiful all over the Mani region.

Panayiotis' lemon tree

On our first day in Kalamata, we went for a walk along the water and came upon a gentleman fishing. I asked him if he'd caught anything. A long conversation later, we knew him as Panayioti. He offered us his age, 84, and told us that he had been born in the house beside the water where he was fishing. He had worked for 53 years in the United States and returned home to live out his time in this modest little house that resembles all of the island houses of Greece. He gave us a tour of his plants and herbs, and told us that this was the only remaining residence on the water side of the harbor. We thanked him, offering the ever-present and always genuine greeting, na se kalla/may you be well, and then continued on our walking tour. And, speaking of walking, I have to remind you that Greek people walk everywhere--almost. It's nothing for someone to walk a mile to a restaurant for dinner or to a shop. They're always walking or sitting at a cafe drinking their favorite coffee drink. Old people walk, skinny people walk, overweight people walk, young children ride bikes in the evenings, well-dressed ladies in heels walk, people propped on canes walk and everyone prefers to sit outside. Even apartments have a small balcony or patio--it's the same all over Greece.

On our last day, I took a long walk to the museum housing the Victoria Karelias Collection of Traditional Greek Costumes. It is a beautifully designed space on three floors. I had a polite welcome and invitation to cool down by viewing the temporary exhibit of renowned Greek artist Yiannis Moralis. After paying my €3 admission, the young man who greeted me gave a description of the history of the collection, an explanation of the layout and how to use the information tablets for each section.

My museum visit was like walking through a sacred space of folk arts--the weaving, hand-sewing, embroidery and lace work. These traditional arts are dying as Greek people leave villages for work in cities. I am grateful for spaces like this that save and cherish these traditional arts. 

Our hotel has been a luxurious surprise. The Grand Hotel Kalamata offers excellent service and assistance with booking tours and taxis. The hotel restaurant also offers a varied and modern menu, paying homage to the traditional ingredients of Kalamata and to the Italian influence of many years of their history. We had a wonderful Green salad that I would order again and a pasta dish that I ordered on two occasions. It features a pasta that is new to me--calamarata. It resembles calamari rings! In my quick scan of the internet, it appears that Calamarata pasta is used primarily in the coastal areas of southern Italy, specifically Sicily and Campania and Calabria. This Italian pasta is very well represented at our hotel restaurant using grilled calamari, shaved zucchini ribbons, cherry tomatoes and pine nuts. A gentleman seated nearby asked if it tasted as good as it looked. I said, "No. It tastes much better." I offer you a link to a simple recipe.

I could go on and on about the surprises and treats of Kalamata, but we're off shortly to stay a few days in Nafplio, the first capital of Greece. More from there later.